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what the critics say

Tracey MacLeod - 11/15
Saturday, February 06, 2010 - Main courses, for all their intense hits of flavour and textural contrasts, were again stimulating and frustrating in equal measure. Like a Generation Game contestant trying to keep up with the conveyor belt, I identified sweet potato, chorizo, hazelnuts and dried basil leaves as components in my sea bass dish. From the menu I see that only four or five other elements eluded me. Fiona's beef, pink and tender, came with Brazil nuts, and saffron-scented beads of fregola which eluded her wide-toothed fork. Some elements, such as baby sweetcorn, seemed to be included just because they looked nice.
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