AA Gill reviews

Sunday, November 14, 2010 - Cured salmon was parsimonious, for a place in the home of salmon. A tempura squid was blankly bland. I wonder if the chef had actually tasted it, and, if so, where he imagined the pleasure in eating it would be gleaned? Possibly in the righteous exercise. The best thing was a dressed crab, fresh and sweet and meaty. A lobster thermidor was too small, and made without panache...Ondine is perfectly adequate in almost every department, but excels in none. In most other cities in Britain, it would be more than welcome. In the rest of Scotland, it would be miraculous. But here and now, it is underpowered and underwhelming.

Sunday, October 18, 2009 - The menu I was given was an immediate, intense joy of unforced, ingredient-led innovation and common sense. I didn't know where to start. And while I thought about it, I ordered roast bone marrow with snails, a longitudinally sawn shin, delicately baked, with the addition of fat snails, chanterelles and a parsley and onion salad. The snails poached with cardamom and star anise and fennel seeds and a dab of garlic sauce. I took a mouthful and knew that I couldn't traverse life's highlands with someone who didn't love this dish more than they loved me.