Matthew Fort reviews

Saturday, August 22, 2009 - Tom Kitchin's cooking is no less accomplished but, I suspect, a touch more accessible, more in keeping with classic French haute cuisine. His menu and his dishes celebrate the beauty of Scottish ingredients. For some of these he turns to classic combinations. The scallops are teamed with an orange and endive tart with a spiced sauternes sauce. The rabbit is filled with spinach, with a ravioli of leg meat, and lettuce and carrot. This is top-dog cooking powered by flavour and youthful exuberance under the control of immaculate technical skill.